A friend has been riding his bike to work for the exercise and for the money.

A friend has been riding his bike to work for the exercise and for the money. He is fairly heavy, but he is still in decent shape. He has an older low-end mountain bike that has needed some work.
He has been making a classic mistake: using gears that are too high for the speed. This causes two problems:
It wears out bike parts too fast
It puts his body in the wrong mode for good exercise.
The bike:
When you push hard in higher gears (the little gears in back), you place much more stress on the chain and on the cogs (the gears on the freewheel). To make it worse, he sticks with the same gear all the time. Many people make this mistake. This makes the one gear wear out quickly and it always takes the chain with it. You know it’s too late when the chain starts skipping when you accelerate. It’s better to use larger gears (in back) for your bike and for your body (explained later).
Bigger gears use more of the chain. More chain links are pushing on more teeth for less wear. Also, lower gears move the bike easier so there is less force applied to the chain. It’s just mechanically better.
My friend thought the front chain rings were causing the skipping, and he was trying to remove the right crank arm. He didn’t realize that it requires a special tool that screws into the crank are and pulls it off of the spindle like a gear puller. He even tried to knock it off with a hammer. This does not work, and he ruined the crank arm.
I explained the real problem and warned him that he will be buying a new chain and a new free wheel. However, he can make it last a little while if he avoids using his favorite gear (this is a better idea anyway, as you will see later).
I gave him a new crank arm and loaned him my puller. I told him to put the new one on tight, and he got it done. He was surprised at how much better the bike rode. His old crank arm was steel, and the new one is alloy. Alloy crank arms are better at transferring the energy into the chain instead of flexing and wasting it. You can certainly tell the difference. Actually, upgrading your crank set is probably the best and most noticeable upgrade you can do for the money.
I also gave him a new left crank arm so the set would match, and he would notice even more difference. I warned him that it’s more important to get the left crank arm tight so it won’t fall off. The left crank are take much more stress than the right because it is turning the spindle and then the right crank arm to pull the chain; The right crank arm only pulls on the chain and doesn’t put stress on the spindle. He told me that he was having trouble with the left crank arm falling off before. He tried several things including Loctite to hold it on, but it kept falling off. The fact is, once it falls off once, it’s ruined. There is nothing you can do to repair it. You have to get a new one. Again, he noticed the improvement in ride quality.
The body:
When you use high gears and pedal slow, you are not only putting too much stress on your bike, you are working in anaerobic mode. It’s the same as lifting heavy weights and doing fewer reps instead of lifting lighter weights and doing more reps. You get tired much faster, and you will not have as much stamina. I supposed your power muscles could get stronger, but there are better ways to do that than riding a bike. Cycling is an aerobic exercise like running is. Use lower gears (bigger gears in back), and pedal faster.
Try to find a comfortable speed that lets you pedal fast. You might feel more winded at first, but it should go away. That is your lungs opening up, and they might not be used to it. You will be able to ride a lot longer, you will go faster, and you will get it shape much easier.

What is the Best Part 5

You thought this was an easy question, and here I am 5 posts laterstill trying to answer it. Think about it, though. The bicycle is oneof the most important inventions in modern times, and the entire
industry is built around this question. Everyone is trying to improve
the bicycle.It's hard to improve on a product that has been around for 120 years.The bicycle is already pretty good. This explains why all my bikes areold, and I have never cared to update them. In fact, many of theinnovations lately actually diminish the ride quality for me. Theydon't make bikes like they used to. For instance, I like the oldmountain bike thumb shifters (as we called them). They were plain oldlevers on top of the handlebar that you pushed forward or pulled back.They were fine. I always push the wrong lever on rapid-fire.The ride quality has improved. I notice that the technology moves downthe line. The bike you buy today for four or five hundred dollars isoverall better than the best bikes you could get 20 years ago.Now, about road bikes:Road biking is a different sport. It's more about the experience ofcovering distances. It's about rhythm, concentration, and spirit. It'salso about overcoming adversaries like wind, hills, and pain. Youdevelop techniques for turning corners and for climbing. I had a goodtechnique for turning hard. I got off the seat and leaned over whilekeeping the bike upright. For some reason, that gives the bike a lotmore stability. My climbing technique is probably not recommended, butI use higher gears and stand up. It's more methodical, and that worksfor me.Road bikes are much more nuanced than mountain bikes are. It takes alot of riding to notice or care about the differences. In other words,if you have never ridden a nice road bike, you will like any of them.The point to a road bike is to conserve energy. A better bike putsmore of your effort into motion. From there, you consider the ridingposition. How far back is the seat compared to the pedal position? Howfar over the front wheel are you? A lot of this has to do with fit,too. You should be careful about finding a bike shop that can fit youcorrectly. In the old days, we actually certified in fitting bikes. Wehad tools like Fit Kit. Look for that stuff.There are two major kinds of road bikes: racing and touring. And thereare three kinds of racing road bikes: criterion, road racing, and timetrials. Oh, wait. There is another one: track (velodrome). You stillsee it in the Olympics. You stand around for a while, and then, at theright moment, like the moment in a gun fight at high noon, you takeoff, and everyone follows trying to pass you.Criterion bikes are stiff, steep, and quick. They pass well, turnhard, and sprint. They are designed for the fast-paced brutal tortureof a criterion where, you race in a pack around a course taking sharpturns, sprinting on short straightaways, carefully maneuvering overbumps, and powering up short hills.Road racing bikes are a little more forgiving but still quick. Theyare designed for long race courses where you ride for miles in apace-line scheming a strategy for catching up to the break away... orstaying ahead if you are in the break away.Time trials bikes are built for one riding position going in astraight line for a long time. They are all about rhythm and keeping aconstant speed and not about cornering. They are designed for longrides alone fighting against the wind and the clock.Touring bikes are heavy, comfortable, and long. They have more gearsfor climbing hills with loads, and they have a lot of places to mountthings like racks, water bottles, and more water bottles. They aredesigned for extended trips where you carry everything you need forcamping when you stop overnight.A little bit about frame materials: Frame materials are more importantin road bikes. They give the bike its road feel. Steel is the mostcommon (or used to be), but different types of steel have differentproperties. Steel has a lively feel that gives nice feedback from theroad. Aluminum has a more dampened feel. To me, it's more of a deadfeel. You might say it insulates the feedback from the road. Titaniumis more like steel but has some characteristics of aluminum.Composites (carbon fiber) are all different depending on the design.It's a science by itself.A little bit about frame design:Lighter is better as long the bike is not too flexible. It should bestrong enough to put your effort into the road without pounding onyou. You don't want the bottom bracket (the crank) swaying back andforth. You want the bike to feel solid but not harsh and flexible butnot whippy. Short chainstays translate to quicker response but aharsher ride. Steeper head angles translate to quicker steering butless stability at higher speeds.The most important concept is that you have to experience riding a fewbikes to know what you like. Your bike shop knows that, too, and theywill let you ride a bike before you buy it.Let me tell you about my bikes to give you some insight:My Lotus is a sport bike. It's meant for riding in all conditions. Ithas a good road feel, and it's easy to handle. It has medium-lengthchainstays so it gives a little bit in the middle for a smoother ride.The bottom bracket is a little bit forward for a more comfortableriding position. It's fun to ride but comfortable enough to ride allday. It makes a great touring bike. I rode it through Yellowstone Parkseveral times, and had a lot of fun. Don't get me started onYellowstone Park. That's for another post.My Colian 753 is a custom road racing bike. Colin Lange made it for mein the late 80s. It is very light, very tight, and fast. To this day,it's the lightest bike I have ever seen. It weighs 17 pounds with theracing wheels and 19 pounds with the trainers. This makes itresponsive and easy to move. It was perfect when I was at 130 lbs,but, at 180, it's a little whippy. It has very short chainstays forquick response. The frame angles are laid back so the riding positionis just right. I like the rear wheel right under me. The head angle issteep, but it is not squirrelly. The springy action of the extremelylight steel (TI 753) is forgiving making up for the quickness insteering. The bottom bracket is stiff, and it does a good job gettingpower to the rear wheel. I rode it in the Tahoe Death Ride once and itmade the ride much more bearable. I rode it a few times in criterionsand road races, but I never did that well. I am not all thatcompetitive. I just enjoy riding bikes.As you can see, I don't like recommending specific bikes. However, forthe sake of argument, I will tell you about some bikes I have liked:Specialized. If you want to be sure you are getting a great bike, youcan always trust Specialized. They have been building some of the bestroad bikes for as long as I can remember – long before mountain bikescame along. These bikes have always impressed me in ride quality andcraftsmanship.Any Italian bike. The Italians are geniuses in elegant style andcraftsmanship. When riding one, it's hard to separate the technicalaspects from the joy and honor pedaling one. If you want the realthing, go Italian.Kestrel. Carbon fiber is hard to work with. It takes a lot ofengineering to make a carbon fiber bike that functions well. Kestreldoes that with great craftsmanship and surprising style. The thingKestrel can do is manipulate the direction of the fibers to apply theexact characteristic to each point on the bike.Trek. It's no coincidence that Trek is a huge bike company. Trek trulycares about the riding experience. They build their bikes with you inmind, and you will notice it.Raleigh. If you want to be part of the classic tradition of roadbiking, take a look at a Raleigh. It's hard to describe it, but theyjust feel right. I think they simply have it figured out after allthese years. It's one of those things you can't put into technicalterms.Custom bikes. You might consider a custom bike if you are adventurous,and you want the perfect fit. There is no substitute for the exactbike for your body.

What is the Best Part 3

All right, I do get the question. You want to know who makes the best bike, right? You want me to tell you which bike to buy so you don't have to shop.
If you read my two latest posts, you know that I believe in the bike shop. You should buy your bike from the right people. Remember, any bike is great if it is built right, but there is an answer to the question, sort of.
You have to understand something: working at a bike shop was my dream job. It was better than anything I could imagine. I loved every minute of it, and I loved everyone involved in it. Sometimes, even after working for years, I would sit on my bench and take it all in. The lights, the floor paint, the truing stands, the drawers full of parts, the tools, the rows of repairs, the rows and rows of new bikes, the sound of the radio, and the smell of solvent, tires, WD 40, Tri-Flow, and Bill's cigars all put me into a state of enchantment. It was really like living a dream. I was right in the middle of everything I wanted to be part of.
The factory reps were like rock stars to me. I looked forward to their visits every month: Sharon from Raleigh, Byron from Specialized, Michael from Nishiki, Jeff from Trek, Stephanie from Advent, Brad on the phone at SBS, and a lot more that I can't remember. There were even some super legends like Phil Wood, Al Kreitler, and his dog Killer. I literally cried when Killer died.
Over the years, I bought, built, and sold a lot of their bikes (no particular order): Raleigh, Specialized, Trek, Giant, Nishiki, Masi, Ciocc, Colin Lange, Colin, Lange, Colian, Ian Lange, Takara, Barracuda, Bridgestone, Scott, Schwinn, Vitus, Cinelli, KHS, Zinn, Klein, Colnago, Gary Fisher, Fisher, Tom Ritchey, Ritchey, Ritchey Fisher, Cannondale, Santana, Fuji, Peugeot, Mongoose, Marin, K2, Kona, Fat City, Bianchi, Lite Speed, Kestrel, Olmo, Serrotta, Eddy Merckx, DeRosa, Guerciotti, Haro, Univega, Moulton, Alex Moulton, Robinson, Moser, Pinarello, Merlin...
I know I forgot some.
I have owned a few, too: Free Spirit 10-speed (had to admit it), Montgomery Ward banana seat bike (might as well include it), Lotus Éclair (still have it), Raleigh 753, Raleigh Commuter, Raleigh Elkhorn, Colian 753 (still have it), Klein Pinnacle (wish I still had it), Bridgestone MB-1, Gary Fisher Kaitai (still have it), Barracuda A2X (still have it), Specialized Rock Hopper (wife's bike I sold her when we met; still have it), and a couple of Schwinn Mountain bikes that my kids ride.
I have assembled, sold, repaired, ridden, owned, and adored thousands of bikes.
…and you want me to recommend one?
I can't.

What is the Best

A lot of people have asked me over the years, "What is the best bike to get?"
This is not an easy question. It’s like asking what you should have for dinner. I don’t know; what do you like?
I am not sure where this question is coming from either. Are you trying to make conversation? Are you patronizing me? I will assume that you really want to know.
There are so many bikes out there that it would take a personality test to determine which one is the best for you. It’s really a personal preference. The problem is that if you have never owned a nice bike, you don’t know your preferences. You have to try a few to find out. You need to realize, though, that the personal preferences are usually the same as everyone else’s, and the better stuff is always more expensive. So figure out your budget.
Let me ask you a couple of questions:
Why do you want a bike in the first place?
Are you trying to get in shape?
Are you looking for a family activity?
Are you looking for some extreme fun?
Or do you want something to decorate your garage?
I can assume that you don’t have a lot of experience. I can further assume that you don’t want to spend a lot of money. This is a good place to be because it limits your choices, and you are not out a lot if you screw it up. Get something decent that you can afford now, give yourself some experience, and then you can blow a lot of money on the type of bike you will want later. The more you ride, the more you will know what you would rather have.
It’s important to understand a concept in the bicycle industry: everyone in it is looking for money. This is hard to take, I know. You would rather think that they are trying to lower the carbon footprint or that they want the world to be healthier, but really, they just need to feed their families.
All bikes are made in factories. Quite a few of them are made in the same factories. Look closely at the frames, a Trek might look exactly like a Gary Fisher. That’s because they are. Last I checked, Trek owned Trek, Gary Fisher, Klein, Kestrel, Lemond, and probably a few others I can’t think of. This dates me but, Giant and Schwinn used to share some models. Don’t take this wrong, though, it’s a good thing. It allows for more choices in an industry that struggles.
The trick to producing a bike is to build it cheap and still get you to buy it. The designers spend a lot of time figuring out what will appeal to you. They start with a frame that looks cool and is fun to ride but not too radical. They choose a stylish color knowing that you mostly want to look good. Then they figure out how to choose parts that look cool but don’t cost much. They will use name-brand parts where you will notice it the most – like the rear derailleur, and then use cheaper stuff where you won’t notice – like the hubs and the bottom bracket (that’s the bearing in the middle that makes the pedals go around). But, guess what, the bearings make the most difference in the ride quality.
It’s a catch 22: The real quality in a bike is the assembly. It’s a craft. Robots build the bikes in the factories, and people in bikes shops put them together. If they do it right, the bike is fun to ride, and it lasts. But the cheaper the bike is, the more important the assembly is. Worse, the cheaper bikes get the least amount of attention because of the lower profit margin. Time is money.
The bike shop owner has to make money, too, but with a tight margin, a lot of competition, and a lot of bikes to sell. So a kid puts your bike together. He (or she – jeez) is paid by the hour, or worse, by the bike. The kid probably makes a little over minimum wage if he can keep up the pace. I am sure he has good intentions, but he doesn’t get a lot of support for putting in the extra effort. I remember being in his place. I wanted to do it right, but I had a time limit. My boss taught me a system so I could do it right but fast. I think my record was 10 bikes in 4 hours. I will teach you the system in later posts.
Some bike shops do a better job, but they charge more. It takes more experience and more skill to do it right while making a profit. Your job is to figure out which shop that is, get past your thrifty nature, and pay a little extra for a better bike. It pays off with a bike that lasts longer and is more fun to ride.
How do you tell if you are getting that extra quality? Keep reading.
More tomorrow.

A Little Philosophy

I am a perfectionist when it comes to bikes. I think any bike can be fun to ride if it is set up right.
I also think bikes and bike parts are overpriced. Compare to car parts. I see plenty of bike tires that cost more than decent car tires. I understand that it’s a supply and demand issue, but I also know that the bicycle is one of the world’s most popular products. So don’t give me that old argument that car parts are mass produced.
Because of this, I hate spending money on bikes if I can fix what I already have.
Think about this for a second: there is a difference between a parts changer and a mechanic. Anyone can change parts until something starts working, but it takes a mechanic to figure out how the thing is supposed to work and then figure out how to get it that way.
A bike is the iteration of a design. The manufacturer’s job is to create the bike from the design, but the manufacturer can mess that up. In other words, the builder of the design may or may not get the machine to a true mechanic is in line with the designer not the manufacturer. The mechanic can see what the designer had in mind and can put the machine into that state. The mechanic takes what was built and makes it true to the design.